Walking in the footsteps of the ancient karelians

From the 12th to the 13th century the territory of Karelia was part of the Novgorod Republic, the Karelians adopted Christianity in 1227, and later the region became part of Russia. Today the majority of the population of Karelia lives in the territory of the Republic of Karelia (75% of the population). The formation of Karelian people occurred in the Lakhdenpokhya region—an ideal location for fishing and living, where the long scenic fjords of Lake Ladoga, jutting far inland, are also dotted with large and small islands. This region is located on the northwestern coast of Lake Ladoga, and borders with Finland. Frequent raids of neighboring states were common, so the homes of the Karelians had to be built on hills with steep slopes, which was often difficult, so that attacking enemy troops could be spotted from a distance. Such settlements, in which in certain cases village's inhabitants took refuge, were called Linnavori and Linnamyaki — castles on a hill. Remarkably, the names of many ancient Karelian rivers, lakes, towns and villages in this area have been preserved.
 

Lakhdenpokhya

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In the Lakhdenpokhya region an ancient complex of dwellings of Karelians from the early Middle Ages still exists. Archeological discoveries here are literally underfoot: local residents still find the occasional bronze bracelet, dating back to the 10th century, or a spear with a metal tip.

From the 9th to the 12th century in Lakhdenpokhya the national people of Korela emerged — the predecessors of contemporary Karelians. During this period, many settlements were established. Those particularly densely populated were in the vicinity of the modern settlements of Kurkijoki, Tiurula and Sortavala (the settlement Paaso).

Kurkijoki (translated from the Karelian language as “crane river”), 42 km from the city of Lakhdenpokhya, is a unique settlement, around which ancient fortresses and villages were built. The most famous of them are Linnavori, Linnamyaki and Yaamyaki. Every summer in July, the ethnographic festival “Cradle of the Karelian Peoples” (Karjalan Kansan Pesa) takes place here.

There are some ancient monuments that can only be seen when the water level of Lake Ladoga drops. For example, the remnants of the 3 km long stone bridge from Kurkijoki to Kannansaari island. Until the 16th century a monastery was located on the island, which was later destroyed by the Swedes. The religious valuables of the monks were sunk on the other coast of the straight, while the bells were taken to Ladoga. In 2000 on Kannansaari a memorial of the destroyed monastery was established and the worship of the cross was sanctified.

In the ancient town of Kuppala, famous for its skilled falcon catchers, the “Ice Mountain” Yaamyaki is located. On its northern slope, in a valley, ice remains until the end of the summer. The mountain is high, and the surroundings can be observed clearly from its peak. It is a well preserved settlement with long defensive ramparts.

Passo fortress is a famous sign of strength for the ancient Karelians. The precipitous mountain top of Passo, which is near Sortavala, offers stunning views of the Helyulyanyoki river and deep valleys, which pass through the small mountains that are linked together in a dense string. Once at the foot of the mountain lay grounds for suitable for agriculture, and the river linked settlements with Lake Ladoga and the distant hinterland. In the 13th century Passo, allegedly destroyed by the Swedes, was deserted by its inhabitants.

Pudozhsky District

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Pudozhsky district is another territory inhabited by the ancient Karelians, rich with artifacts. It was here, on Lake Onega in the sunrise and sunset, the eyes of a few travellers were offered the “Stone Book of the North” - a set of petroglyphs that appeared six to seven thousand years ago, that is, before the Egyptian pyramids.

The Karelian petroglyphs have been carefully drawn out in strikingly beautiful places: on huge flat stones on islands in the middle of the forest. Over 1200 images stretch over 21 kilometers, from the mouth of the Volda river to the islands Small and Big Turia. The petroglyphs depict scenes of hunting for fish and deer, as well as pictures of every day life.

The most numerous petroglyphs are at Peri Nose and Devil’s Nose. The latter, incidentally, is named on purpose: on the rock face of Lake Onega a figure is stamped, not of a man, but of a demon, with a crack in the stone running through its torso. Legend has it that if you spend too much time gazing at the 2.5 meter-long image, you can lose your sanity! So have a close look but whatever you do, don't stare!

Although Karelian petroglyphs are considered anomalous places, they actually give strength and vitality. Indeed, it is necessary to believe in their positive energy in order to endure the difficult path to reach this wonderful place.
 

Lake Onega

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Even if you do not surrender to the Karelian petroglyphs, it is worth visiting the White Sea petroglyphs in the north. Among these figures the Karelians left an image of a skier with long skis, on the stone. It is believed that this is the first reference to skiing in the world.

In continuing the exploration of the Pudozhsky region, it is impossible to not discuss lake Onega - the most important lake to the ancient Karelians, as well as for modern Europeans too. It is the second largest freshwater reservoir in Europe, with water that in many factors is even cleaner than in Lake Baikal. Being very shallow (in total only 120 meters deep, in comparison to the 1642 meters of Lake Baikal’s maximum depth), Lake Onega absorbs more than 110 rivers, and like Baikal, produces only one – the Svir river. The narrow, elongated outline of the lake is enclosed in a high rocky coast, which forms numerous islands. The landscape is austere, romantic and even fantasy-like. Re-read ‘Kalevala’ and contemplate it in the dense forest, which is perfectly reflected on the water’s surface, and it seems that between the pines are the forest host Tapio or his spouse Melikki with the keys to the storerooms and wood barns are strolling.

On the southern coast of Lake Onega on Cape Murom, the Holy Dormition Murom Monastery is located, which was founded in 1350 by the Lazar of Murom. His relics are located at the altar that was delivered to the same former temple. In 1918 the monastery was closed and was only restored in 1991.
 

The Village of Kalevala 

Photo credit: Lori/Legion-Media
North-west Priladozhye is another ancient homeland of the Karelians, fraught with the legendary village of Kalevala, which was earlier called Ukhta. It is here that the traveller and most famous researcher of Karelian-Finnish epochs, Elias Lönnrot, scrupulously collected tales and songs of the ancient Karelians that were passed from generation to generation. In general, the rune-singing tradition in northern Karelia has continued for many centuries, but it is thanks to ‘Kalevala’ that the rune-singing culture of ancient Karelians has continued to the present day and has gained a truly global reputation.

The collections of Elias Lönnrot’s runes date from the middle of the first millenium. Runes were not just simply performed for themselves. They were sung while knitting, while making yarn, during the collection of berries or to fill men during campaigns. Local residents composed runes reminding and bringing to us the heroes of Kalevala, as well as about the present. Thus in the 12th century songs about collective farm life and about the astronaut Yuri Gagarin in space appeared. A museum of Kalevala rune-singing is located in the house of Maria Remshu, the most famous narrator.

Today the spirit of ‘Kalevala’ resides in the Kalevala grandmothers. They dress in national costumes, sing ancient songs and compose new ones.

Kalevala retains the ancient traditions of the Kalevala people - dishes, flowers or headpieces for banya made from birch bark. The banya, heated by smoke, has a special place in the way of life of Karelians. Inside them people washed and performed magical rituals. The banya is a place of potential taboo, and thus one should speak softly, observe cleanliness and even refrain from doing laundry in it.

The local craftsmen make charms (shaped as chapels) from birtchbark. The Karelians believed that in establishing a family, it is necessary to build a house, and at the birth of each child open one window of the house.

The memory of E. Lönnrot, who during the years 1834-1835 wrote the Karelian Songbook,while sitting under an ancient pine tree, is preserved in Kalevala.
 

Olonets

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The Olonets region is the only city in Karelia, in which Karelians comprise the majority of the population. The most common route passes through the small villages of southern Karelia, which have preserved the old daily life of the Olonets. Here there are also the villages of jewelers Yurgelitsy and Kuytezha, the village of hunters and fishermen, and Bolshaya Selga with its ancient Karelian huts. It is interesting that every village has its own patron, who residents honored annually.

Olonets is considered the most rich in terms of city festivals. In the autumn the festival of Karelian poetry and national costume is organized, in the winter the person to play Pakkaine - the Karelian Santa Claus, not actually an old man but a young boy - is chosen. In the spring the festival ‘Oloniya - Goose Capital’ is held, while in the summer the milk ‘Cow Parade’ occurs.