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Monochrome grace: The reconstruction of the Caucasian fashion of the early 20th century

The lyrical female image from the early 20th century was reconstructed in the costumes by artist Elvira Arsaliya and through the lens of present-day photographer Otto Lakoba.
By Daria Donina
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Otto Lakoba

"Three Colors of Time" is an unusual project created in Abkhazia (a partially-recognized small country in the Caucasus) earlier this year. The project brought together several directions – costume, photography and interiors. The lyrical female image from the early 20th century was reconstructed in the costumes by artist Elvira Arsaliya and through the lens of present-day photographer Otto Lakoba.
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Otto Lakoba

"This series features monochrome dresses – white, black and gray. The images refer to the beginning of the 20th century, and we decided to play up this thing and call the project Three Colors of Time," Lakoba explained. The project consists of three parts, which will be introduced in a chronological order. This year saw the first part.
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Otto Lakoba

Elvira Arsaliya explained the purpose of the project the following way: "As an artist, I tried to convey how finely honed taste and sense of beauty were a hundred years ago. And it is very important for us not to lose them today. This does not mean that you should copy and repeat, but this sense of beauty must necessarily be preserved. We have a difficult time, with the interaction of different cultures taking place, and I think that it is important to turn to the past more often..."
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Otto Lakoba

The Art Nouveau costume reflects a shift in ideals: proportions, structure and silhouette change. Under the influence of the new style, the decorative trim of the dress fades, and attention focuses on the expressiveness of basic elements. This is a time when the costume combines a Western European influence and a national flavor.
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Otto Lakoba

"This is the beginning of the 20th century, there are few national elements here, but they are still present. It was a special "southern" type of Modern Style in the costume design. If compared to other countries and other regions, the difference is felt very strongly," Elvira says.
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Otto Lakoba

The prototype for this series can be found in the tradition of "cabinet portrait," which emerged in England in the 1860s and came to Abkhazia in the late 19th century. These portraits were sized 4 1/4 by 6 1/2 inches and were made in a special studio on a background of "cabinet" decorations – a chair, a table, a sofa, children's toys, etc.
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Otto Lakoba

At the beginning of the century, a number of photo studios were functioning in Sukhum; the most famous was Leonid Pimenidis’ Atelier, belonging to the photographer who was honored with Grand Duke Nikolai Konstantinovich Romanov's highest award for his skills.
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Otto Lakoba

"Three Colors of Time" is a walk through the past into an era of upheaval and change, wars and emigration, meetings and partings, as reflected in the silent images, reminiscent of the poetry of the Russian Symbolists: "She stood mournfully, strangely, Like a pale rain in a cold summer..."
May 6, 2015
Tags: fashion, regions, culture, lifestyle

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