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Alberto Caspani
The Teriberka town, located on the Barents Sea coast, is supposed to be the last refuge for perishing ships.
Alberto Caspani
A shaky bridge divides the town from the historic village of Lodeyny, where brave fishermen do not surrender to the passing of time and avoid keeping their boats in the bay for too long.
Alberto Caspani
Fallen roofs peep out into the sky, letting the Arctic dawns in, while the squeaking sound of rusty frames scares seagulls hunting for their dinner.
Alberto Caspani
Teriberka seems to have barely survived a bomb attack, even though the German Naval Forces retreated from here well before the bloodiest years of World War II started.
Alberto Caspani
A touching cross, erected in memory of the sailors lost at sea, overlooks the bay, the sole beneficiary of the beautiful purple shades of the bay's dawns and sunsets.
Alberto Caspani
It hurts way too much to see fishing boats that once went against the Arctic ice rot down in the bay, crushed by that very same ice.
Alberto Caspani
Shark and salmon fishing has seen better days in Teriberka, with its golden years between the end of World War II and the beginning of the 1960s. Even though sea fishing is the main source of employment for two thirds of the population in this remote town on the Barents Sea, the decision to move territorial jurisdiction to Severomorsk effectively killed the local economy.
Alberto Caspani
While Gazprom, Total and Statoil are discussing how much to invest in a gas field that on its own represents 2% of world reserves, the fading charm of Teriberka is attracting wanderers and hardened fishermen. They come in summer and winter, looking for isolation, for the golden gado gado fish, or to observe the spectacular migration of the tundra’s swans.
Alberto Caspani
However, when you look more closely in the mud, you can distinguish footsteps that do not belong to the locals. Nor do they belong to some cold zombie. They come from the tundra...
Alberto Caspani
Reindeer farming also vanished in the air, due mainly to the facilities offered by the fields around Lovozero, the “capital” of the Sami people. Between fish shops in decay and ghost farms, you can still see some wooden fences around sporadic lichens and Arctic raspberry bushes.
Alberto Caspani
Here it's possible to experience the life of nomadic reindeer farmers. After the collective farms were closed, many of them went back to their old customs and traditions. Today, they are the most experienced guides to the harsh surroundings of the Kola Peninsula.
Alberto Caspani
There is a believing that Teriberka is about to be invaded by extreme tourists. However, on the streets you can only hear the echo of your own footsteps.